Gel nail polish, a liquid substance that hardens when under ultraviolet (UV) radiation, has revolutionized the beauty industry by offering a long-lasting and durable shell with a glossy finish. However, the European Union (EU) banned a key ingredient in gel nail polish, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), September 21 due to a possible correlation between the chemical and reproductive health risks, according to nbcnews.com. This change has raised concerns surrounding the safety of radiation-induced beauty products, as well as questions of whether the United States (US) is safely regulating women’s beauty products, according to pbs.org.
TPO is a photoinitiator that catalyzes a chemical reaction when it absorbs light at specific wavelengths and, in the case of gel nails, creates a polymerization reaction under UV light that creates a solid coating on the nail, according to sciencedirect.com. While the EU banned TPO because it is linked to reduced fertility, fetal abnormalities, and possible liver and kidney injuries, these are not the only risks TPO-containg gel nail polish can pose, according to The New York Times. In fact, a study by the US National Institute of Health revealed that TPO can indeed be toxic to human cells, according to nih.gov.
Moreover, TPO is not the only risk gel nails pose to clients, as the UV radiation exposure alone can increase cancer risks as well, according to npr.org. Dr. Shari Lipner, a dermatologist and director of the Nail Division at Weill Cornell Medicine, explained how frequent use of the UV lamps that set gel polish can be hazardous.
“Gel manicures are relatively new, and DNA damage often takes time to build up[,] so it’s entirely possible that more skin cancer cases associated with UV dryers will emerge in the coming years,” Dr. Lipner said, according to npr.org. “What I would recommend is that people who have a long history or regular history of doing the gel nails should partner with a board certified dermatologist […] who can check their skin regularly looking for early signs of skin cancer. While people may be used to monitoring their moles for signs of melanoma, the type of skin cancer linked to UV dryers is actually another form known as squamous cell carcinoma, which looks very different and is noticeably rough to the touch.”
Besides the concerning health risks, gel polish damages nails as well, especially with frequent use, according to womenshealthmag.com. Ms. Deena Campbell, a beauty editor for Women’s Health Magazine, discussed how the polish itself can weaken nails.
“There is damage baked into the treatment itself,” Ms. Campbell said, according to womenshealthmag.com. “Gel manicures work by applying layers of gel polish that cure under UV or LED light, and this UV exposure can lead to nail dehydration, brittleness, and even premature aging of the skin around the nails over time.”
With increasing awareness surrounding the risks of gel nail polish, people are finding solutions to protect themselves from skin cancer and other health issues while maintaining shiny, long-lasting manicures. Although sunscreen only blocks exposure from the sun and not UV radiation, wearing fingerless UV protective gloves can help to minimize health risks and protect skin, according to The New York Times. Additionally, to avoid weakened nails, TPO, UV radiation, and other harmful chemicals altogether, opting to use regular, non-toxic nail polish instead can be beneficial for the overall health of one’s nails, according to byrdie.com.
Featured Image by Blaire Williamson ’27
